Early 1800s US Army Jacket Sewing Pattern Past Pattern original

Pattern Number: 0041


Circa 1812

2 Patterns are offered,  Sizes 1-4 are for chest sizes 38″-44″ (96cm-112cm) and Size 5 is for chest sizes 46″-54″ (117cm-137cm)

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Early 1800s US Army Jacket Sewing Pattern Past Pattern original

Pattern Number: 0041


Circa 1812

2 Patterns are offered,  Sizes 1-4 are for chest sizes 38″-44″ (96cm-112cm) and Size 5 is for chest sizes 46″-54″ (117cm-137cm)

Get Free Shipping

On all US Orders over $50!

All of our patterns tell a story.

Why Choose This Pattern?

This Early 1800s US Army Jacket is an original Past Patterns design
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From our documentation, "The army roundabout was one of the longest-lived garments worn by American soldiers. Known variously as a waistcoat with sleeves, a coatee without tails, a roundabout, a privates’ woolen or cotton jacket, a shell jacket, or a uniform jacket, the garment served for seventy-five years."

James Kochan is the spirit behind the development of this 1800s US Army jacket pattern. We began work together in 1990. He provided the concept that the cuff had to be added to the documented sleeve length. He also suggested the height of the collar with documentation from the National Archives. The other vital person, who even James Kochan will acknowledge shared his research with a teenaged James, is Stephen Osman. Stephen has been researching in the National Archives for over thirty-five years. All of us in costume history owe a debt of thanks to Stephen Osman and James Kochan. Without their determination to find and share accurate information, costume history—particularly military costume history—would be less developed and refined.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Thanks to the following institutions and individuals who generously allowed me to study coats with narrow backs: Don Troiani; James Kochan; Historic Deerfield; Ohio Historical Society; the Western Reserve Historical Society; the Wayne County Museum in Richmond, Indiana.; and the Huguenot Society in New Paltz, New York. Thanks again to Don Troiani for the art that graces this Website titled and copyrighted, “Private Scott’s Brigade US Infantry Regular 1814", www.historicalartprints.com . Thanks to Anne Bissonette for creating the exhibitions “Fashion on the Ohio Frontier: 1790-1840, The Age of Nudity” and “Hair: The Rise of Individuality 1790-1840.” Thanks also to Elizabeth Bowling for editing the pattern notes, Ericka and Ken Osen, Nancy Rexford, RoxAnne Raisner, Kathleen and Fritz Kannik of Kannik’s Korner, Susan Greene of the American Costume Studies Institute, Robert Stone, Henry Cooke IV, Kevin Seligman, Parks Canada, John Altman, and the many others who have helped me over the years to bring this project to light.

FINAL TESTING - Final instructions and pattern tested and edited by Holly Turner of Holly’s Custom Sewing.
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Our original pattern matches the measurements of the U.S. Army correspondence of 1812 describing the size No. 2 of the Linen Jacket with Sleeves.
The other sizes, No. 1 [Chest 38"], No. 3 [Chest 42"], and No. 4 [Chest 44"], are extrapolated from the original US Army Jacket No. 2 [Chest 40"].

A bonus with the U.S. Army issued sizes is an adjusted pattern for the modern man needing a larger armhole.

For modern body types, we offer the Past Patterns size 05 of the 1800s Jacket. It begins where the original U.S. Army Jacket issued sizes stop and has the larger armhole. The 05 is graded for chest sizes from 46"-54".
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Fabric Requirements
If using 58 inch wool or linen:
Size 1 (for 38" chest size) requires 1-5/8 Yds.
Size 2 (for 40" chest size) requires 1-2/3 Yds.
Size 3 (for 42" chest size) requires 1-3/4 Yds.
Size 4 (for 44" chest size) requires 1-7/8 Yds.

For Modern Man's Body Type use our Size 5
Chest 46"+ requires 2-1/8 Yds.
Chest 48"+ requires 2-1/4 Yds.
Chest 50"+ requires 2-3/8 Yds.
Chest 52"-54"+ requires 2-1/2 Yds.

If using 45 inch wool or linen:
Size 1 (for 38" chest size) requires 2-1/8 Yds.
Size 2 (for 38" chest size) requires 2-1/3 Yds.
Size 3 (for 38" chest size) requires 2-1/2 Yds.
Size 4 (for 38" chest size) requires 2-5/8 Yds.

For Modern Man's Body Type use our Size 5
Chest 46"+ requires 2-1/2 Yds.
Chest 48"+ requires 2-3/4 Yds.
Chest 50"-52"+ requires 2-7/8 Yds.
Chest 54" requires 3-1/8 Yds.

Notions: 3/8 Yd. 45" wide pocketing fabric, white/brown linen thread and 11 reproduction foliated script I buttons.
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The 1800s US Army Jacket pattern package includes 2 pages on period accurate stitching, 3 pages on the history of US Army Jackets from the 1790s to 1816, information on how the sizes 1, 3 and 4 were extrapolated from the original size 2 garment, Construction Notes, Fabric Layouts, How To Mark the Garment using the same means that was used in the early 1800s, notes on period accuarate tools, 10 illustrated and written pages on Construction along with 2 sheets of computer generated patterns, 1 36"x61" and 1 36"x47".
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Our patterns are printed on 20 lb. white paper and packaged in a reusable plastic. We always attempt to offer the most reasonable shipping rates for domestic and international orders. Multi item purchases are automatically adjusted for combined shipping.
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Past Patterns 2023. All rights reserved.

Additional information

Weight 0.75 oz
Dimensions N/A

38" chest, 40" chest, 42" chest, 44" chest, 46" – 54" chest

This item is for single, non-commerical usage. If you want to mass produce items, please contact us.

Sizing Information

(Metric size sheet opens as a PDF in a new browser tab)

Preferred Vendors

For pattern #0041 we recommend purchasing your supplies from one of our preferred vendors.

Past Patterns works with vendors from all over the world to help us replicate the amazing articles of clothing. Now you can too!

Visit our preferred vendors page to order directly from some of our top recommended suppliers. 


(Frequently asked questions)

Why are both Trowsers and Trousers listed on site?

Over the last 200 years, much like the human body, our style of language has changed.  For vintage patterns, we attempt to use the language of the day where possible.

Can you grade (edit) a Vintage Revival pattern for my size?

please contact us with the specific pattern number and the specifications you require.  We have staff available for this for an additional fee.

What sizes do Past Patterns patterns come in?

Our patterns, with some exceptions, are manufactured in sizes 8 through 26 for women and sizes 34 through 54 for men. Most patterns are multi-sized. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.

Do you have vintage patterns (manufactured prior to 1950) that you want to sell?

we are always on the lookout for original, American designed, vintage patterns especially for categories outside of current items.  We are interested if you have 1 pattern or 1000 patterns.  Give us a call to discuss.

Why is my pattern size different from my off the rack dress size?

We use the U. S. Board of Standard Measurements to size our patterns. The ready made clothing manufacturers have their own set of sizes developed from their own statistics. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.

How are the patterns packaged?

We package our patterns in two forms: Bond Paper and Tissue. Except for the Tissue patterns, each is slipped into a reusable plastic sleeve. Many contain documentation in the form of Historical Notes or the printer ie., Butterick. Because the patterns are printed in house to order, they can take from three to seven days. Tissue patterns, which are printed out of house, are available to ship immediately.

What does a Corset Kit contain in addition to the Corset pattern?

In addition to the pattern, the kits contain everything you need to make the corset except the thread. The kits contain, according to their type, fabric and lining, stays, clasp or busk board, back lacing, tape for finishing the edges, trim lace, ribbon, leather, tin stock, waist tape, punch and setter, eyelets, marking pencils, cording, reed and a loop turner.

Need a pattern in your language?

we can translate our instructions into just about any language

Have an old and incomplete Past Patterns item. What can I do?

The answer depends on if the pattern is still in production or not.  If it is, please mail us the old pattern and we will ship you a copy of the latest pattern for a minimal fee along with normal shipping charges.  If the item is no longer in production, we would need to know exactly what you have to determine the best course of action to help you.

What is the difference between a Past Patterns original pattern and a Vintage Revival pattern?

The Past Patterns originals were designed in house and based upon the research, disassembly and time of Saundra Ros Altman.  These designs come from finds all over the United States reaching from San Diego, California to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, DC.  She created the initial patterns, the sizing charts and the instruction content.  Many of the these patterns are multi-sized or are available in various sizes.  For the most part, these designs are done taking into account the modern human body's shape, height and weight. The Vintage Revival patterns are traces or copies of an old, mass produced pattern; the first mass produced patterns came out in the 1850s.  For the most part, you get exactly what came in the original package; in some cases, Saundra has appended historical notes to the instructions.  The Vintage Revivals patterns, being copies of the originals, generally only come in one size and are based upon the size and shape of the human body from the era the pattern came from.

What software do you use to create patterns?

We utilize PW Studio for our designs.  Isabelle Lott, a contributor over the years to Past Patterns, is the owner of the company and will be happy to answer an software related questions you have.  Her software is available for licensing.

What measurements do I need to know to order a Corset Kit?

The bust and back length. The back length is measured from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline.

Where can I see the appropriate clothing fabrics for the 18th and 19th centuries?

You can see 1740 through 1940 fabrics in a book titled "Textile Designs" by Susan Meller and Joost Elffers. The subtitle states, "Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns for Printed Fabric by Motif, Style, Color, Layout and Period and 1,823 Illustration in Color." What they don't say is that 90% of the swatches pictured are life size. The ISBN is 0-8109-3853-7. A second book is Wearable Prints, 1740-1860, History, Materials, and Mechanics by Susan W. Greene. The ISBN is 978-1-60635-124-6. Great books! Order it from your local library that has interlibrary loan capability if you cannot afford the price. There are now many sources for appropriate fabric through the Internet.

Where can I find antique patterns to purchase?

On the Internet try: "Patterns from the Past."


Need a pattern tomorrow?

we do offer expedited domestic shipping for extra fees.  We can also expeditie international shipments but delivery dates overseas cannot be promised.


Becoming a Wholesalers of our patterns

We offer Wholesalers significant discounts that will allow both your and our businesses to flourish.

Why don't we sell PDFs of our patterns - First due to piracy.  We have spent over 40 years creating and tracing these patterns along with researching them.  We print and ship all of our patterns ourselves.  If we started sending out PDFs, in no time, copies of our Intellectual Property would be all over the internet and we would be out of business.  Second, some of our patterns are constantly being updated.  We want our clients to get the BEST POSSIBLE version of our products.


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