Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern | Past Patterns 1487
$19.00
The Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern (Past Patterns 1487) recreates a classic men’s lounging coat from the Demorest Pattern Company, praised in 1898 as an easy-to-make and seasonable garment. This relaxed jacket features collar, cuffs, pocket-laps, and traditional braid-style finishing. Graded for chest sizes 44″–54″.
Skill Level: 2/5 — straightforward jacket construction with optional trim and lining details.
998 in stock
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Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern | Past Patterns 1487
$19.00
The Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern (Past Patterns 1487) recreates a classic men’s lounging coat from the Demorest Pattern Company, praised in 1898 as an easy-to-make and seasonable garment. This relaxed jacket features collar, cuffs, pocket-laps, and traditional braid-style finishing. Graded for chest sizes 44″–54″.
Skill Level: 2/5 — straightforward jacket construction with optional trim and lining details.
998 in stock
Get Free Shipping
On all US Orders over $50!
All of our patterns tell a story.
Why Choose This Pattern?
Overview
The Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern (Past Patterns 1487) reproduces a classic men’s lounging coat design originally issued by the Demorest Magazine Pattern Company and later nicknamed the “Roosevelt” during Theodore Roosevelt’s presidency (1901–1909). In an 1898 holiday feature, the Detroit Free Press praised the “Roosevelt” as an excellent, seasonable gift—“easy both to cut and make”—and ideal for home sewing. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
Designed for comfort and easy wear, this jacket is a timeless period silhouette: a short lounging coat with a shaped collar, cuffs, and pocket-laps, traditionally finished with braid trim and loop-and-button style fastenings. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
About This Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern
This Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern is built around authentic Demorest construction logic, including clearly marked notches that guide assembly and matching placement holes for pocket-laps to align cleanly with the jacket front. The original Demorest directions describe the pattern layout as “half the pattern…given in 8 pieces,” including front and back of coat, collar, two pocket-laps, cuff, and two sleeve pieces. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
- Pattern pieces: 8 pieces (Demorest original format) :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}
- Seam allowance: 3/8" seam allowances
- Closures & trim: traditionally finished with braid and buttons (loop-and-button look) :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}
What You Receive (Printed Edition)
Your printed package includes a copy of the original Demorest artwork on the cover, general directions for cutting, measurement guidance, and Past Patterns historical notes on Demorest and early full-size paper pattern publishing. :contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5}
This is a printed (physical) pattern set—your full-size pattern pieces arrive printed on 36" wide paper and are packaged for durability and easy storage.
Sizes & Fit
This Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern is graded for Chest Sizes 44"–54", including 46", 48", 50", and 52". (The original Demorest issue referenced “medium” and “large” sizing conventions of the era; Past Patterns grading extends the usable sizing range for modern makers while preserving the original look and proportion.) :contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6}
Fit note: Early 1900s smoking and lounging jackets were intended to feel relaxed through the chest and body for comfort—especially when layered over a shirt or waistcoat. If you are between sizes, choose based on your finished chest preference (trimmer vs. roomier lounging fit).
Fabric Suggestions & Yardage
Period guidance emphasizes rich but wearable materials. The Demorest directions describe cloth or silk as appropriate outer materials, with quilted satin commonly used for the lining. :contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}
- Recommended outer fabrics: wool broadcloth, wool flannel, velvet, velveteen, silk taffeta, silk faille, heavier sateen
- Lining: quilted satin or smooth satin lining for a traditional finish
- Trim options: braid trim, frog closures, or a clean tailored edge depending on your historical interpretation
Fabric requirements (as noted in the original directions): the original issue references yardage for “medium” and “large” sizes using 54" wide goods. :contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8} Because Past Patterns has graded this design across a wider chest range, we recommend confirming yardage after selecting your size and reviewing layout.
Skill Level
Difficulty: 2/5 (Confident Beginner)
Why: The Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Sewing Pattern is described in the period directions as easy to cut and make, and the garment is fundamentally straightforward—jacket body + collar + sleeves—without advanced tailoring structure. :contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}
- You’ll be comfortable if you can: set sleeves, sew collars, manage facings or linings, and keep edges crisp and symmetrical.
- What can raise the difficulty: quilted linings, braid trim application, button loops/frogs, and precision matching at pocket-laps and cuffs.
Historical Context
The “Roosevelt” name reflects the early 1900s cultural moment when men’s at-home dressing became a symbol of comfort, modern leisure, and refined taste. Smoking jackets and lounging coats were commonly made in darker tones (browns, Oxford greys, navy) and were as much about appearance as warmth—especially when finished with satin linings and decorative trim. :contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}
To place the nickname in its presidential-era context, see the official White House biography for Theodore Roosevelt (1901–1909): Theodore Roosevelt – White House.
Construction Review (Optional Reading)
A helpful community build review can be found here: PatternReview – Roosevelt Lounging/Smoking Jacket.
Also Available in Download Format
Prefer a digital version? This design is also offered as a download here:
Early 1900s Roosevelt Smoking Jacket Downloads.
Copyright
Copyright Past Patterns 1979–2026. All rights reserved.
Additional information
| Weight | 8 oz |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 13 × 10 × 2 in |
Sizing Information
(Metric size sheet opens as a PDF in a new browser tab)
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FAQ's
(Frequently asked questions)
Why are both Trowsers and Trousers listed on site?
Over the last 200 years, much like the human body, our style of language has changed. For vintage patterns, we attempt to use the language of the day where possible.
Can you grade (edit) a Vintage Revival pattern for my size?
please contact us with the specific pattern number and the specifications you require. We have staff available for this for an additional fee.
What sizes do Past Patterns patterns come in?
Our patterns, with some exceptions, are manufactured in sizes 8 through 26 for women and sizes 34 through 54 for men. Most patterns are multi-sized. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
Do you have vintage patterns (manufactured prior to 1950) that you want to sell?
we are always on the lookout for original, American designed, vintage patterns especially for categories outside of current items. We are interested if you have 1 pattern or 1000 patterns. Give us a call to discuss.
Why is my pattern size different from my off the rack dress size?
We use the U. S. Board of Standard Measurements to size our patterns. The ready made clothing manufacturers have their own set of sizes developed from their own statistics. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
How are the patterns packaged?
We package our patterns in two forms: Bond Paper and Tissue. Except for the Tissue patterns, each is slipped into a reusable plastic sleeve. Many contain documentation in the form of Historical Notes or the printer ie., Butterick. Because the patterns are printed in house to order, they can take from three to seven days. Tissue patterns, which are printed out of house, are available to ship immediately.
What does a Corset Kit contain in addition to the Corset pattern?
In addition to the pattern, the kits contain everything you need to make the corset except the thread. The kits contain, according to their type, fabric and lining, stays, clasp or busk board, back lacing, tape for finishing the edges, trim lace, ribbon, leather, tin stock, waist tape, punch and setter, eyelets, marking pencils, cording, reed and a loop turner.
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Have an old and incomplete Past Patterns item. What can I do?
The answer depends on if the pattern is still in production or not. If it is, please mail us the old pattern and we will ship you a copy of the latest pattern for a minimal fee along with normal shipping charges. If the item is no longer in production, we would need to know exactly what you have to determine the best course of action to help you.
What is the difference between a Past Patterns original pattern and a Vintage Revival pattern?
The Past Patterns originals were designed in house and based upon the research, disassembly and time of Saundra Ros Altman. These designs come from finds all over the United States reaching from San Diego, California to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, DC. She created the initial patterns, the sizing charts and the instruction content. Many of the these patterns are multi-sized or are available in various sizes. For the most part, these designs are done taking into account the modern human body's shape, height and weight. The Vintage Revival patterns are traces or copies of an old, mass produced pattern; the first mass produced patterns came out in the 1850s. For the most part, you get exactly what came in the original package; in some cases, Saundra has appended historical notes to the instructions. The Vintage Revivals patterns, being copies of the originals, generally only come in one size and are based upon the size and shape of the human body from the era the pattern came from.
What software do you use to create patterns?
We utilize PW Studio for our designs. Isabelle Lott, a contributor over the years to Past Patterns, is the owner of the company and will be happy to answer an software related questions you have. Her software is available for licensing.
What measurements do I need to know to order a Corset Kit?
The bust and back length. The back length is measured from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline.
Where can I see the appropriate clothing fabrics for the 18th and 19th centuries?
You can see 1740 through 1940 fabrics in a book titled "Textile Designs" by Susan Meller and Joost Elffers. The subtitle states, "Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns for Printed Fabric by Motif, Style, Color, Layout and Period and 1,823 Illustration in Color." What they don't say is that 90% of the swatches pictured are life size. The ISBN is 0-8109-3853-7. A second book is Wearable Prints, 1740-1860, History, Materials, and Mechanics by Susan W. Greene. The ISBN is 978-1-60635-124-6. Great books! Order it from your local library that has interlibrary loan capability if you cannot afford the price. There are now many sources for appropriate fabric through the Internet.
Where can I find antique patterns to purchase?
On the Internet try: "Patterns from the Past."
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Why don't we sell PDFs of our patterns - First due to piracy. We have spent over 40 years creating and tracing these patterns along with researching them. We print and ship all of our patterns ourselves. If we started sending out PDFs, in no time, copies of our Intellectual Property would be all over the internet and we would be out of business. Second, some of our patterns are constantly being updated. We want our clients to get the BEST POSSIBLE version of our products.
