Partially Boned Transition Stay Pattern
Multi-sized 8 through 26
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Why Choose This Pattern?
Historical Notes About Partially Boned Transition Stay Pattern 0038 by Saundra Ros Altman
The 0038 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the Connecticut Historical Society stay number 1963-42-4. The pattern package contains Past Patterns' Background Notes, published for the first time, reviewing differences among eighteenth-century stays, transition stays of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, and classic stays of the first quarter of the nineteenth century through the early twentieth century. The Background Notes also show detailed drawings of transition stays in museums and private collections, plus contemporary documentation dating the Connecticut Historical Society stay to between the late eighteenth century and 1820. Additional illustrations from advertisements, catalog companies, United States patent records, and ladies' magazines of 1840-1899, as well as original garments, document cupped stays made both at home and commercially. These garments were in addition to, if not a complete substitute for, the stiff and inflexible, waist-compressing item that most people imagine when the word corset is mentioned today. Detailed illustrated fitting and construction instructions complete the package.
I have been indebted since at least 1993, and will be for the remainder of my life, to clothing historian Nancy Rexford. She was the person who first introduced me to the administration at the Connecticut Historical Society and who sought permission for me to produce the Connecticut Historical Society stay pattern. This pattern would not exist without her support.
Ms. Rexford is a guiding light, sharing her knowledge with both veteran and novice students of costume history. Inspired by her dedication and example, I have continued to work to share historical fashion with the public at large, via historical patterns. By researching in public and private collections and archives, and by creating patterns from original garments, I have, I hope, allowed people to make and wear clothing that exemplifies fashion history. We all owe Ms. Rexford more than we can ever acknowledge.
Thanks to Nancy Rexford for allowing Past Patterns to reprint portions of “Frocks and Curls.” For access to original garments, I thank the Connecticut Historical Society; the Danvers Historical Society; the Farmers’ Museum in Cooperstown, N.Y.; Conner Prairie; The Hermitage, Ho Ho Kus, N.J.; the Kansas City Museum; the Chester County (Penn.) Historical Society; the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities; Leslie Bellais at the Wisconsin Historical Society, Madison; Alden O'Brien at the DAR Museum; Kristina Haugland at the Philadelphia Museum of Art; Paula Richter at the Peabody-Essex Museum; Megan Spagnolo at the Western Reserve Historical Society; Marianna Klaiman; Beth Miller Hall; and Catherine Bishop. For access to archives and libraries, and for research assistance, I wish to thank Elizabeth Bryan at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Erin Schleigh and Susan Ward at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; the Bodleian Library, Oxford, England; and Yolanda Blue at the University of California, Santa Barbara. For assistance producing the pattern packet, I am deeply indebted to Peggy Falk of Falk Designs for the cover art, the illustrations of original stays, and freehand art in the fitting sections; Elizabeth Bowling for editing and research; Holly Turner of Holly's Custom Sewing (573) 438-4596 for testing the pattern and instructions; Catherine Bishop for supplying period advertisements; Virginia Mescher; the ladies who enthusiastically tested the pattern at workshops; and the people who generously opened their homes to me when I traveled to research.
Order this pattern in sizes 8-26 (bust 31-1/2" - 48" (80cm-122cm)).
Purchase 45"-wide fabric in the following amounts: Sizes 8 - 14 require 7/8 yd.; sizes 16 - 20 require 1 yd.; sizes 22 - 26 require 1-1/8 yds.
This item is for single, non-commerical usage. If you want to mass produce items, please contact us.
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(Frequently asked questions)
Why are both Trowsers and Trousers listed on site?
Over the last 200 years, much like the human body, our style of language has changed. For vintage patterns, we attempt to use the language of the day where possible.
Can you grade (edit) a Vintage Revival pattern for my size?
please contact us with the specific pattern number and the specifications you require. We have staff available for this for an additional fee.
What sizes do Past Patterns patterns come in?
Our patterns, with some exceptions, are manufactured in sizes 8 through 26 for women and sizes 34 through 54 for men. Most patterns are multi-sized. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
Do you have vintage patterns (manufactured prior to 1950) that you want to sell?
we are always on the lookout for original, American designed, vintage patterns especially for categories outside of current items. We are interested if you have 1 pattern or 1000 patterns. Give us a call to discuss.
Why is my pattern size different from my off the rack dress size?
We use the U. S. Board of Standard Measurements to size our patterns. The ready made clothing manufacturers have their own set of sizes developed from their own statistics. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
How are the patterns packaged?
We package our patterns in two forms: Bond Paper and Tissue. Except for the Tissue patterns, each is slipped into a reusable plastic sleeve. Many contain documentation in the form of Historical Notes or the printer ie., Butterick. Because the patterns are printed in house to order, they can take from three to seven days. Tissue patterns, which are printed out of house, are available to ship immediately.
What does a Corset Kit contain in addition to the Corset pattern?
In addition to the pattern, the kits contain everything you need to make the corset except the thread. The kits contain, according to their type, fabric and lining, stays, clasp or busk board, back lacing, tape for finishing the edges, trim lace, ribbon, leather, tin stock, waist tape, punch and setter, eyelets, marking pencils, cording, reed and a loop turner.
Need a pattern in your language?
we can translate our instructions into just about any language
Have an old and incomplete Past Patterns item. What can I do?
The answer depends on if the pattern is still in production or not. If it is, please mail us the old pattern and we will ship you a copy of the latest pattern for a minimal fee along with normal shipping charges. If the item is no longer in production, we would need to know exactly what you have to determine the best course of action to help you.
What is the difference between a Past Patterns original pattern and a Vintage Revival pattern?
The Past Patterns originals were designed in house and based upon the research, disassembly and time of Saundra Ros Altman. These designs come from finds all over the United States reaching from San Diego, California to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, DC. She created the initial patterns, the sizing charts and the instruction content. Many of the these patterns are multi-sized or are available in various sizes. For the most part, these designs are done taking into account the modern human body's shape, height and weight. The Vintage Revival patterns are traces or copies of an old, mass produced pattern; the first mass produced patterns came out in the 1850s. For the most part, you get exactly what came in the original package; in some cases, Saundra has appended historical notes to the instructions. The Vintage Revivals patterns, being copies of the originals, generally only come in one size and are based upon the size and shape of the human body from the era the pattern came from.
What software do you use to create patterns?
We utilize PW Studio for our designs. Isabelle Lott, a contributor over the years to Past Patterns, is the owner of the company and will be happy to answer an software related questions you have. Her software is available for licensing.
What measurements do I need to know to order a Corset Kit?
The bust and back length. The back length is measured from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline.
Where can I see the appropriate clothing fabrics for the 18th and 19th centuries?
You can see 1740 through 1940 fabrics in a book titled "Textile Designs" by Susan Meller and Joost Elffers. The subtitle states, "Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns for Printed Fabric by Motif, Style, Color, Layout and Period and 1,823 Illustration in Color." What they don't say is that 90% of the swatches pictured are life size. The ISBN is 0-8109-3853-7. A second book is Wearable Prints, 1740-1860, History, Materials, and Mechanics by Susan W. Greene. The ISBN is 978-1-60635-124-6. Great books! Order it from your local library that has interlibrary loan capability if you cannot afford the price. There are now many sources for appropriate fabric through the Internet.
Where can I find antique patterns to purchase?
On the Internet try: "Patterns from the Past."
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Why don't we sell PDFs of our patterns - First due to piracy. We have spent over 40 years creating and tracing these patterns along with researching them. We print and ship all of our patterns ourselves. If we started sending out PDFs, in no time, copies of our Intellectual Property would be all over the internet and we would be out of business. Second, some of our patterns are constantly being updated. We want our clients to get the BEST POSSIBLE version of our products.