Small-Fall Trowsers with Frog Pockets
Offered in Waist Sizes: 28″-42″ (71cm-107cm) or 44″-52″ (112cm-132cm).
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Why Choose This Pattern?
Historical Notes About Small-Fall Trowsers with Frog Pockets Pattern 0008 by Saundra Ros Altman
The trowser pattern is available in 2 sizes, 28"-42" and 44"-52".
Small fall trowsers enjoyed a long period of use and popularity. The small fall trowser opens with a flap (fall) in the front. In this version, the front includes two side pockets and a watch pocket. The fall is welted and held up by buttons and the trowsers were worn with suspenders. The 008 small-fall trowsers were copied from originals in the collections at the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency (now known as The Illinois Historic Preservation Division) in Springfield, Illinois. While the trowsers were copied from the originals, the pattern was drafted from the 1837 trowsers draft in The Tailor's Masterpiece. The construction is true to the originals.
The fabric requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". In 45"- wide fabric, purchase: 2-3/4Yds. for sizes 28"-34"; 3 Yds. for sizes 36"-42"; 3-1/8 Yds. for sizes 44"-52".
FABRICS: The original trowsers were made of brown wool broadcloth. A second pair was made from a copy of the first in navy blue wool broadcloth. Substitute fabrics are: cotton sateen; light-weight cotton duck; linen; drill in white or blue, or woven into stripes, check, or plaid; and fine wool jean. Do not purchase worsted wool.
NOTIONS: The original lining, pocketing, and facing fabric is a white, medium-weight cotton. Of 45"-wide lining fabric, cut 7/8 Yd. Two-ply hand-sewing silk thread and 60/2 wet-spun linen thread to match fabric. Nine 5/8" five-holed, dyed or plain bone buttons.
This is a pattern package rich with information. It is divided into seven sections:
Historical Notes by Bill Combs - Briefly summarizes the introduction of small-fall trowsers and where they were worn after they were no longer fashionable.
Fabric Glossary - A small glossary of fabrics mentioned in the small-fall trowser notes.
Pattern Drafts 1800-1838 - Illustrates trowser drafts from 1800-1838 and the differences and similarities between tailor-made and ready-made garments.
Construction Notes - Explains how to measure and how to wear mid-19th-century trowsers.
Essentials of Tailoring Outlines the minimum tools needed by a journeyman tailor or a home tailoress, how to make them, and their uses.
Historical Stitches Illustrates the stitches used to construct the original trousers.
Making Up Describes and illustrates in detail how to make a pair of reproduction trowsers similar to the originals.
Matching Patterns: If wearing the trowsers for the first quarter of the nineteenth century, order shirt patterns from Kannik's Korner at www.kannikskorner.com . If wearing the trowsers for the mid nineteenth-century, consider ordering Past Patterns' SKU 0006 - Mens Drawers, SKU 0010 - Square Cut Shirt, SKU 0011 - Fitted Shirt, SKU 0018 - Single-Breasted Vest and SKU 0009 - Double-Breasted Paletot.
Past Pattern Acknowledgements: Thanks to the Ross County Historical Society, Chillicoathe, Ohio, for the Tailor’s Instructor, #1942.235; the Ohio Historical Society, Columbus, for Rules and Direction for Cutting Men’s Clothes, by the Square Rule, #TT590.J7. Special thanks to Isabelle Lott of Pattern Works International for grading the pattern in all the sizes; Peggy Falk of Falk Designs for the cover and any freehand art; Elizabeth Bowling for editing; and to others too numerous to include.Final Testing: Final instructions and pattern tested and edited by Holly Turner of Holly’s Custom Sewing. Phone Ms. Turner at (573) 438-4596.
This item is for single, non-commerical usage. If you want to mass produce items, please contact us.
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(Frequently asked questions)
Why are both Trowsers and Trousers listed on site?
Over the last 200 years, much like the human body, our style of language has changed. For vintage patterns, we attempt to use the language of the day where possible.
Can you grade (edit) a Vintage Revival pattern for my size?
please contact us with the specific pattern number and the specifications you require. We have staff available for this for an additional fee.
What sizes do Past Patterns patterns come in?
Our patterns, with some exceptions, are manufactured in sizes 8 through 26 for women and sizes 34 through 54 for men. Most patterns are multi-sized. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
Do you have vintage patterns (manufactured prior to 1950) that you want to sell?
we are always on the lookout for original, American designed, vintage patterns especially for categories outside of current items. We are interested if you have 1 pattern or 1000 patterns. Give us a call to discuss.
Why is my pattern size different from my off the rack dress size?
We use the U. S. Board of Standard Measurements to size our patterns. The ready made clothing manufacturers have their own set of sizes developed from their own statistics. For a complete listing of measurements in inches see the size chart.
How are the patterns packaged?
We package our patterns in two forms: Bond Paper and Tissue. Except for the Tissue patterns, each is slipped into a reusable plastic sleeve. Many contain documentation in the form of Historical Notes or the printer ie., Butterick. Because the patterns are printed in house to order, they can take from three to seven days. Tissue patterns, which are printed out of house, are available to ship immediately.
What does a Corset Kit contain in addition to the Corset pattern?
In addition to the pattern, the kits contain everything you need to make the corset except the thread. The kits contain, according to their type, fabric and lining, stays, clasp or busk board, back lacing, tape for finishing the edges, trim lace, ribbon, leather, tin stock, waist tape, punch and setter, eyelets, marking pencils, cording, reed and a loop turner.
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Have an old and incomplete Past Patterns item. What can I do?
The answer depends on if the pattern is still in production or not. If it is, please mail us the old pattern and we will ship you a copy of the latest pattern for a minimal fee along with normal shipping charges. If the item is no longer in production, we would need to know exactly what you have to determine the best course of action to help you.
What is the difference between a Past Patterns original pattern and a Vintage Revival pattern?
The Past Patterns originals were designed in house and based upon the research, disassembly and time of Saundra Ros Altman. These designs come from finds all over the United States reaching from San Diego, California to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, DC. She created the initial patterns, the sizing charts and the instruction content. Many of the these patterns are multi-sized or are available in various sizes. For the most part, these designs are done taking into account the modern human body's shape, height and weight. The Vintage Revival patterns are traces or copies of an old, mass produced pattern; the first mass produced patterns came out in the 1850s. For the most part, you get exactly what came in the original package; in some cases, Saundra has appended historical notes to the instructions. The Vintage Revivals patterns, being copies of the originals, generally only come in one size and are based upon the size and shape of the human body from the era the pattern came from.
What software do you use to create patterns?
We utilize PW Studio for our designs. Isabelle Lott, a contributor over the years to Past Patterns, is the owner of the company and will be happy to answer an software related questions you have. Her software is available for licensing.
What measurements do I need to know to order a Corset Kit?
The bust and back length. The back length is measured from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline.
Where can I see the appropriate clothing fabrics for the 18th and 19th centuries?
You can see 1740 through 1940 fabrics in a book titled "Textile Designs" by Susan Meller and Joost Elffers. The subtitle states, "Two Hundred Years of European and American Patterns for Printed Fabric by Motif, Style, Color, Layout and Period and 1,823 Illustration in Color." What they don't say is that 90% of the swatches pictured are life size. The ISBN is 0-8109-3853-7. A second book is Wearable Prints, 1740-1860, History, Materials, and Mechanics by Susan W. Greene. The ISBN is 978-1-60635-124-6. Great books! Order it from your local library that has interlibrary loan capability if you cannot afford the price. There are now many sources for appropriate fabric through the Internet.
Where can I find antique patterns to purchase?
On the Internet try: "Patterns from the Past."
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